Cambodia 2026 Day 2 Siem Reap

 

Ta Prohm Temple
Today we continue the tour in Angkor Archaeological Park with focus on Bayon Temple (巴戎寺), Baphuon Temple (巴方寺), Terrace of the Elephants and the surroundings.


Located at the heart of the ancient city of Angkor Thom (吴哥通王城) in Cambodia, Bayon Temple is one of the most enigmatic and visually striking monuments within the Angkor Archaeological Park. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century by King Jayavarman VII, it served as his official state temple.

The Smiling Faces (四面佛塔)

The temple is world-famous for its "face towers." There are dozens of towers (originally 54, with about 37 remaining) adorned with over 200 massive, serene stone faces.

  • Who do they represent? Scholars debate whether they are the face of Avalokiteshvara (the Bodhisattva of Compassion), the Hindu god Brahma, or an idealized portrait of King Jayavarman VII himself—or perhaps a blend of all three, symbolizing the king's omnipresent watch over his empire.

  • The "Khmer Smile": The faces are known for their closed eyes and mysterious, tranquil smiles, which have become a symbol of Cambodian heritage.



Unique Architecture

Unlike the structured, classical design of Angkor Wat, Bayon feels like a "temple-mountain" built in a more cluttered, organic style.

  • Three Levels: The temple is built on three levels. The first two are square galleries decorated with intricate bas-reliefs, while the third is a circular upper terrace where the face towers are concentrated.

  • Bas-Reliefs (淺浮雕): The outer walls feature over 1.2 kilometers of detailed carvings. Unlike other temples that focus on mythology, Bayon’s reliefs provide a rare glimpse into daily life in the 12th century, depicting naval battles, marketplace scenes, and even a woman giving birth.


Later on, when I visited the National Meseum in Phnom Penh, I saw more detailed description like these below.
Chinese

Khmer and Chinese Soldiers fighting together

Northwest of Bayon Temple is the Baphuon Temple (巴方寺). Baphuon Temple is a majestic "temple-mountain". While the Bayon is famous for its faces, Baphuon is renowned for its colossal scale and its incredible story of survival and restoration.

Key Highlights

  • The "Golden Tower": In the 13th century, Chinese diplomat Zhou Daguan (周達觀)described Baphuon as a "Tower of Bronze"—a truly impressive sight that was even taller than the Bayon at the time.


  • The Elevated Causeway: The entrance features a unique 200-meter-long sandstone causeway supported by thousands of short pillars. It looks like a long bridge leading to the main temple and is a favorite spot for photography.


  • The Reclining Buddha: On the western (back) side of the temple, there is a massive 70-meter-long reclining Buddha built into the retaining wall. It was added in the 15th century, long after the original construction, using stones from the upper parts of the temple.

The Terrace of the Elephants (斗象台) is a massive, 350-meter-long stone platform located northeast of the Baphuon Temple. It served as the giant viewing stand for King Jayavarman VII and his court during public ceremonies and military parades.


1. The Purpose: A Royal Reviewing Stand

In the 12th century, this wasn't just a wall; it was the foundation for grand wooden pavilions (which have long since rotted away).

  • The King's Seat: From here, the King would watch his victorious armies return from battle, observe games, or listen to the complaints of his citizens.

  • The Royal Square: The terrace faces a vast open field known as the Royal Square, where festivals, acrobatic performances, and military drills took place.

2. The Famous Carvings

The terrace gets its name from the life-sized bas-reliefs of elephants and their mahouts (handlers) hunting in the jungle.

  • The Three-Headed Elephant: Look for the staircases flanked by Airavata, the mythical three-headed elephant of the god Indra, whose trunks are depicted plucking lotus flowers.



  • Mythical Protectors: Beneath the platform, you will see rows of Garudas (mythical bird-men) and Lions with their arms raised, appearing to hold up the entire structure.

  • The Five-Headed Horse: On the northern end, there is a famous carving of a five-headed horse (Balaha), a manifestation of the Bodhisattva of Compassion.

Terrace of the Leper King is a striking 12th-century monument located in the northwest corner of the Royal Square of Angkor Thom. The terrace's unusual name is derived from a 15th-century statue found on its platform. Early discoverers noted that the figure's weathered appearance and moss growth resembled a person with leprosy. While local legend connects the statue to a legendary "leper king," modern scholars believe it actually represents Yama, the Hindu god of death, leading to theories that the site may have served as a royal crematorium.

Terrace of the Leper King 中文叫癩王台。「癩王」名稱源於平台上方原有一尊赤裸且沒有性徵的石像(原件現存於金邊國家博物館,現場為複製品)。關於為何稱其為「癩王」,主要有兩種說法:考古學家認為,這尊石像實際上是印度教中的死神閻摩 (Yama)。石像之所以看起來像患了痲瘋病,是因為長期暴露在室外,石材表面長滿了地衣與苔蘚,導致斑駁脫落,後人誤以為是皮膚病。神話傳說有一位高棉國王因為與蛇神(Naga)戰鬥,被蛇毒噴到而染上了痲瘋病(Leper),這尊石像就是紀念這位生病的國王。

癩王台最震撼的建築特色在於內外兩層牆: 考古學家在修復時發現,在現在看到的牆面後方,竟然還隱藏著另一層年代更久、保存更完整的浮雕牆。內外兩層牆壁上都刻滿了密密麻麻、層層堆疊的精美浮雕。內容包括多頭蛇神 (Naga)、海怪、阿修羅,以及許多神態各異的神靈。這些浮雕的精細度極高,甚至超過了附近的戰象台。由於平台上方供奉著死神閻摩,許多學者推測這裡是古代皇室舉行火葬儀式或進行審判的地方。象徵的意義是代表了通往冥界或宇宙秩序的入口,浮雕中的神靈則象徵著冥界的眾神。

Quick Summary of the "Angkor Thom Center" Trio:
  1. Bayon: The temple with the faces.

  2. Baphuon: The temple with the long causeway and giant reclining Buddha.

  3. Terrace of the Elephants: The grand stage for royal parades.

After a short lunch break, it is time for Ta Prohm Temple. Ta Prohm is one of the most iconic and atmospheric sites within the Angkor Archaeological Park, famously known as the "Tomb Raider Temple" because it served as a filming location for the movie. Unlike many other temples that have been meticulously restored, Ta Prohm was intentionally left largely as it was found, showcasing a dramatic struggle between nature and man-made stone.


That night, we went to Phare, the Cambodia Circus. Circus-style entertainment featuring high-flying acrobatics with live music based on a true story.

More interesting is the fishing dance before the show, played by some lovely kids.
Continue to the next day (link).

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